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Jon's Story

Friday 19th July, 1996 - CARLTON TO LOWCA

So there we were the couple that had taken all but the kitchen sink, to cater for all eventualities, on their epic journey across Europe to Switzerland, now faced with the sight of two bum bags and two panniers to pack all their gear on some ridiculous quest to cycle from England's west coast to the east coast. What madness was this?

A hundred miles up the road, the Little Chef was our first oasis. We arrived there at approx 6.30pm, how appropriate that 24 hours later almost to the minute we would be scrambling up a craggy 5 mile path at the end of our tether on a boiling hot day pushing our bikes frustratingly in front of us. Instead, all I was pushing around now was my sausage and bacon as part of my mixed grill, if only I had known what lay ahead, then Skipton would have been as far north as I would have travelled.

As would become the norm for the next few days our timed plans would go to pot from day one. Aiming to be at Lowca for 9pm soon became 10pm as Kate and I arrived as darkness settled on Cumbria's west coast, our travelling companions greeted us at the door, Eileen rushing to our assistance - our journey was just about to begin!!

Saturday 20th July, 1996 - LOWCA TO DOCKRAY

Our blistering early start to the day failed to materialise as we false started by agreeing to an 8.30am breakfast. The early morning cooked brekkie was the ideal way to help summon up the reserves of energy needed for the tasks ahead.

Our 'team' consisted equally of three men and three women, two with experience of long bike rides, two wishing experience of long bike rides, one with the desire to wish for a long bike ride experience and the other straggler who barely knew how to get on a bike let alone cycle 150 miles on one.

The beginning was down hill to Parton and on to Whitehaven, a steady two miles. At Whitehaven our first problem was finding the start, pushing our bikes through the Saturday market was not perhaps the beginning we hoped for. Once on our way, things went fine up to Cleator Moor, where Michael, Eileen and I detoured to the local spar to get our maps stamped. I asked the assistant whether there had been many CtoC people through, she said hundreds, and added that we were the last! Cheeky bugger.

This stretch was easy and enjoyable, along old railway lines and cycle tracks but this was also a long stretch where tired young legs and inexperienced cyclists would be suffering badly come lunch time.

Lunch time was a long way off. We had never really got going and the miles were mounting up ahead of us. I especially, experienced the 'Whinlatter Wobbles'. By 2.30-3pm I was knackered - well and truly and found the last stretch to our late lunch very difficult.

Lunch revitalised us all (albeit late), Michael's misfortunes had me laughing - bird crap on his bike seat and flies in his tea!

On leaving Whinlatter it was a steep, rough road descent which had our tyres burning rubber. Prior to this enjoyable downhill ride we encountered 'Mr and Mrs Grumps' who parked their car in the middle of the track and then promptly opened the door as Eileen was about to pass; Michael told them what for and they responded by remonstrating with us that they "bloody live here!"

Nice gentle ride to Keswick, sensibly avoiding the Castlerigg route. How we should have been really glad of that!

Unfortunately we took a wrong turn after Keswick and ended up cycling a bit further and so it was that as the time got to 6.30pm and as the hot sun crept slowly away we unwittingly took our last 5 miles onto the Old Coach Road.

The unforgettable nightmare to follow had several key moments:

a) Andy cycling on ahead to tell us that following that we were nearly there - we were nowhere near!

On the OCR

b) The tiredness we were all feeling and the still immense heat on our weary backs.

c) Eileen screaming "shit, shit, shit" behind us as frustration understandably got the better of her, and how all of us were far too tired to stop and help.

d) Reaching the road at long last in our respective couples and seeing the signpost to 'Dockray' and civilisation. The hill down to our hotel, we must have been doing at least 30mph!

The hotel was lovely but we were all just too tired to care. Kate in particular was suffering badly with her breathing and along with Celia and Michael we came very, very close to packing this whole trip in. We decided to sleep on it and see how we felt in the morning.

Sunday 21st July, 1996.

We decided to continue onwards and the journey to Penrith was just what we needed. Relatively level ground, quiet roads and warm sunshine eased us into our second days cycling.

A steep climb out of Penrith sees Eileen fall on 'Fell Road'!

Nice lunch and teas at Little Salkeld on the village common - Andy scolds his backside with hot tea!

Michael rides Kate's bike 30 yards uphill and buggers her spokes, a fifteen minute break fixes it for the time being.

Once more we came towards the end of the day with the hardest part left. The long, winding route to Hartside on the road proved to be the making of us all - although fairly intimidating we all managed to cycle most of it and the café at the top was still open at 6pm!

The descent was so smooth, long and fast that my ears nearly froze halfway down, the cold wind smacking into my body.

The annoying aspect here was that I thought we were nearly at our base for the night but it seemed to take ages to reach the Old Post Office at Garrigill.

The accommodation here was our most basic and once more we were all knackered. We did manage a laugh or two at the pub over our meal so much that Kate had to up and leave the table once more.

Our stay here was marred by the thousand and one insects that took root in our bedroom that night. The hot, sticky atmosphere brought thousands (no exaggeration) of the little blighters in, I must have killed hundreds of them before I finally gave up, my sapped energy at a very low ebb by 11 o'clock.

Monday 22nd July, 1996.

Probably the most enjoyable day, one or two climbs, several descents and although hard work we seemed to go through the miles at a good pace.

The best part being our wind assisted route along a hill top which literally blew us all along for seemingly miles without the need for pedalling.

It was on this day that I fell off my bike on a treacherous gravel path, slipping to one side and thus coming a cropper. I wasn't badly hurt so I continued on our final stretch to our best accommodation the lovely Bee Cottage Farm near Consett. Rooms were lovely, tea and cakes on arrival, lovely evening meal and very friendly people for a delightful retreat indeed. And so to bed.

Tuesday 23rd July, 1996.

The final day. Twenty odd miles left, mostly on the level as we headed seaward to Sunderland. The journey's end was strangely flat physically and metaphorically speaking. For me, it was a relief that the end was nigh but tinged with just the slightest sadness that this epic journey was coming to a close.

But before the end there was to be a sting in the tail, unfortunately quite literally.

Crossing a bridge heading not too far from the outskirts of Sunderland an unknown insect of the 'stingy' variety zoomed in on my throat region and did sting somewhat, lets be frank here ("Ooh Betty" - no, not that Frank!) It bloody stung loads! I was in some pain but fortunately the 'team' rallied round, some ointment was produced and we continued on our way.

Finally at Sunderland

Sunderland was much as we feared, quite rough, broken glass everywhere and a big anti-climax. We had to cycle on through to Seaburn, Sunderland's 'Skegness', got our final stamp on our map and ate our sandwiches on the sea-front.

Eileen and Andy went off to catch the earlier train so the magnificent six was split up right at the last, it was not the ending we wanted. I was tired and really wished for the train to take us back.

Finished! Pah, back onto our bikes to cycle back to Sunderland. We managed to fit all our gear neatly onto the train and met up with the Suttons in Carlisle.

Tired, worn out, fatigued and generally knackered we still had one more uphill cycle ride once off the train to our hotel, this nearly finished me off completely, my bum was raw and it felt as though this was the steepest climb of all, of course it wasn't at all. Yet, determined to finish in style, for once I didn't get off and push, I continued all the way up to the hotel entrance. At last we had finished.

We enjoyed one last evening meal congratulating ourselves on our achievements and how we had come out of it all unscathed when Kate slipped over outside the pub, grazing her leg and hurting her pride.

Poor wife, she'd done the difficult 150 mile cycle journey safely but the 200 yard walk downhill proved too much.

And so the story ends, I woke up the following morning - and it had all been one long nightmare after all!

I would just like to thank my wife for talking me into the whole journey in the first place!

Celia and Michael for bullying me into buying our bikes in the first place!

And Eileen and Andy for being so, well, Eileen and Andy.

Cheers everybody, I think we made a great team!!

C to C Top Ten

1. I've had enough - The Who

2. Road to Hell - Chris Rea

3. Broken Glass - Cyndi Lauper

4. Riding on My Bike - Madness

5. Long and Winding Road - The Beatles

6. Rough Rider - The Beat

7. Road to Nowhere - Talking Heads

8. Bicycle Race - Queen

9. Sunny Afternoon - The Kinks

10. Ain't No Mountain High Enough - Diana Ross

5 Worst Moments - C to C

1. Old Coach Road

2. Old Coach Road

3. Old Coach Road

4. Old Coach Road

5. Old Coach Road

Closely followed by:-

6. Whinlatter Forest Route

7. Kate - so poorly after OCR

8. Hills, hills

9. Flies and insects in our room at Garrigill

10. Bloke who invented the bicycle

5 Best Moments - C to C

1. The end back at Whitehaven

2. Bees Farm Cottage

3. Downhill from Hartside

4. Reaching the top at Hartside

5. Being blown along the top without pedalling

5 Funniest Bits - C to C

1. Woman exclaiming "We do live here!"

2. Fly in tea and crap on saddle - sorry Michael

3. Hilarity in the pub at Garrigill

4. My ridiculous hill climb whilst exclaiming "Morning, C to C"

5. Kate falling over outside the pub

Quotes - C to C

1. "Shit, Shit, Shit" - Eileen

2. "Morning, C to C?" - Jon

3. "We're nearly there" - Andy

4. "Car!" - everybody, particularly Eileen

5. "Change gear" - Eileen